Wednesday, May 1, 2013

Buildin' Bloggin'

Hey All!
A running entry on a pet project of mine, namely the Battle of Stalingrad. Pictured above is my first attempt at a ruined building using foamcore board, cereal box cardboard and PVA glue mixed with drywall mud. The design is rather simple and I plan on adding more detail in the next one which I have posted below.

One belief I have about wargame terrain is that it has to be playable. Its no good if you have this wonderful terrain that your minis cannot sit properly on. For this reason, I try and think out what is needed and what will cause issues with mini placement. For example, if this were a real destroyed building, there would be piles of rubble and debris scattered around the footprint but this would not allow minis to be placed. What I plan on doing is making up some rubble edge and corner pieces and butting them up to the building. This allows the rubble to be shifted out of the way in order to place your minis. As well, on the next building, I will have a removable back that lets you place minis on the individual floors instead of having to disassemble stacked floors.


The next building will be based on 4-floor concrete apartment blocks seen in pictures of the battle. I decided to make a building based on this picture:



I begin with the next building by laying out the basic idea on the foamcore with pencil. I plan on adding in a removable back after so only designed the three sides. Approximate heights and outer walls are sketched in, window/door cutouts marked and once happy, I draw in the fold lines with a marker.  Just remember to put the lines on the opposite side for inside corners!


For working with foamcore, you need VERY sharp blades - and many of them. For general straight cuts, a drywall knife with snap-off blades will do but window/door cutouts will require an X-acto. When cutting the folds, only cut through the first layer of paper, then bend. You will get a strong corner on one side and will have to add either a paper/cardboard edge piece or square corner to cover the exposed edge on the other.

Once I got the folds figured out, I laid the building flat and cutout the windows and door. You have to cut past the edge so the corners are sharp and any cuts that show will get covered up with PVA/mud later.

I find that its best to cut on the building outside as the inside opening tends to be less square due to the angle of the blade through the foam.




So I had some time this morning to add on the building...I enlarged the bottom windows and added sills made from cardboard.  I then added outside corners made from square-cut basswood bought from Canadian tire for 1 dollar for 3 feet. As well I added some detail work around the door.



I marked out the areas that would recieve damage and cut them out.


 I didn’t realize how true this was going to be! I ran into a problem when I attached the floor. I used hot glue instead of PVA and the work time is very short. Even with the floor reference line, the glue set before I could align it properly.




 The floor was crooked and caused the building to sit uneven…now what? I tried to remove the floor but it caused the walls to buckle and then I had a melt down…and smashed the whole thing into the garbage…it was probably save-able...but not after I crushed it... 


You know...I learned something today; sometimes its better to have to wait on glue to dry instead of trying to rush with something else...Hot glue = destruction!

When I was younger I used to rush when building plastic models, not waiting till glue or paint dried to do the next step and see the finished product and the results were predictable. It wasn't until I watched a friend building a Stuka, the same one I was building, that I realized the patience needed to do a good job. In the time I built mine, he had only assembled and painted the wheels and bombs. He took the time to plan and paint parts before assembly. He removed the parts from the sprue with a hobby knife, I broke them off with my hand; He painted things and set them aside to dry, I tried to glue wet painted parts together...

Once I took the time, my models improved dramatically and I became much less frustrated and truly enjoyed building. I think I need to revisit this lesson...

Other things I learned...

- Ergonomic license will be needed to model ceiling height extra high so you can get your mitts inside to place minis.

- Don't try to model everything, including extra floors; two or three is sufficient, any more becomes fluff.

- Plan everything out and use reference photos.

- Maybe im drinking too much coffee?

I'm not giving up. I will start again on a similar building and add to this thread.

Troy


Monday, April 22, 2013

A New Direction

Hey All!
 
I have decided that due to ease of transport (read: I am tired of driving instead of flying) I am pursuing a different approach to terrain for gaming. Currently I am using 2x2 foot rubber mats that jigsaw puzzle together to form the base for modular terrain. The problem with that is it is pretty bulky to lug around and costs extra to get on the plane.

Looking around, I have decided to test out a terrain mat idea using acrylic caulk on a canvas drop-sheet. The canvas is pretty cheap and comes in varying widths so I bought a 4x16’ sheet at Canadian Tire for 15 bucks to do a 4 foot Stalingrad test piece with a couple 6 foot maps left over once I get the hang of creating. I stapled down the canvas to a piece of plywood to prevent shrinkage.


The paintable acrylic caulk is cheap (2-3 bucks a tube), water clean-up and is a bit tricky to work with but is extremely flexible when dry. Tube says 35 years…geez, I’ll be 77 years old when I have to redo my map! I chose an interior/exterior type that is earth brown in color. A four foot square mat used up 2 tubes to get 1/8 inch coverage.

In a paint roller tray, I squeezed out the content of the tubes and added in sand and tan acrylic house paint to get a bit of texture and a lighter color.  I don’t think I will add in the paint next time as I think it may weaken the caulk. The resulting goo is quite sticky and spreading is best done with a roller or a gloved hand. One word regarding the caulk, VENTILATION! I worked with a fresh air supply and a face mask filter that is rated for organic particulate. I am not sure how bad this stuff is but it does stink!
 

Once smooth, I covered the whole map with sand. I hand-pressed the sand into the caulk and dumped off the excess. I should have smoothed out the caulk a bit better as I noticed paint roller ridges and such but it still looks ok when done.  I scraped off a few roads with a spatula and then formed some shellholes by adding in more caulk, covering in fine sand and shaping as desired. That seems to work best for working in this medium, smooth out the basic shape, cover with fine sand or dry tile grout and then add final details.


 
I left for a few days to dry and then painted the entire map an earth tone with flat tan house paint. I added a brown wash and tan drybrush and then cut the edges square. The map is super durable and rolls up nice and easy. It can be put into a tube or folded into a suitcase without damage.


I plan on doing the next map with built-in roads first and then flock/static grass other areas to represent the steppe of Russia.

Stay tuned!

Troy

Salute 2013 Pictures

Hey All!

Some pictures of the recent Schwere Kompanie scenario 'Spartanovka' in Vancouver at the Trumpeter Salute 2013:
 
























Cheers!

Troy






















 

Thursday, March 28, 2013

BOOM goes the Dynamite!


Hey All!

A few pieces of terrain for the Salute 2013 and some easy-peasy Barrage markers.
Trenches are wooden matches with tile grout/PVA glue groundwork based on 1/4 MDF. Sandbags are 2-part epoxy putty. Telephone and signpost are scratchbuilt, using bamboo skewers and thread. They are used to mark map reference locations. The signpost actually says Spartanovka, Front, Death to Invaders and Hospital in Russian Cyrillic script - Really! Thanks Google translator!

Barbed wire is screen door mesh, cut into a single row, twisted around brass wire with the cordless drill. Hedgehogs are Evergreen I-beam. I may based on pennies later. Barrage markers are Woodland Scenics clump foliage, hot glued to wire armatures and sprayed flat black and white. Took about an hour to make two, stole the idea off the net. I didn't bother with the PVA glue dip step. Feeling a bit impatient today.  I found that the paint and hot glue holds everything quite well on its own.

Now, all I have to do is load all this stuff in the car and travel 16 hours to Vancouver for an weekend orgy of gaming...I am such a geek...

Cheers!

Troy

Friday, March 22, 2013

S'More Little Soldiers...

Hey All!

Just a teaser with some pic of the squads and terrain I have been working on for Salute 2013..

I will be using this Hauptmann for a -2 PHQ. He is pretty good sculpt and has good face and hand detail.

I really like the way he turned out especially like the color of his uniform.

Fleshing out my Soviets with a few more squads. Pretty bland basing...just want them done so didn't add any bricks and the like...

...pretty much ready to move on to painting up something new. I'd like to do up some LW Canadians and SS next.


A bit of scratchbuilding on the DP gunners. Changed the head on one to a Pilotka and new legs on the crouching fellow. Head swapped a Finn (standing firing) to fight for the Ruskies as the rifle and uniform are close; just a bit of carving to the equipment. I find the extra effort spent in giving your minis originality quite rewarding although it tends to get overlooked on the game table.