BF Customer Service and Salue 2013

Hey All!

Monday mail brought me a package from Battlefront Customer service the other day and I just had to let you know about it. It consisted of a muffler part that was missing from a Char B tank blister I purchased in April of 2012. I recently re-sent the email to Customer service reminding them of the missing part.

Now, although it had been 10 months since I originally sent in the complaint, I was happy that they finally sent me the part, abet late. The real reason for this post though, is the inclusion of a wrinkle-smoother.

Battlefront included, at no cost to me, the new GE897 Warriors of Market Garden blister in the package. I must say I was surprised by this and feel that this needs to be recognized. Thank-you Battlefront for making it right!

Strangest thing was I had listed the blister for my next order...

I currently am busy getting together the minis/terrain for Salute 2013 in Vancouver this April. I will be hosting a Saturday 0900k timeslot game but may also do a Sunday one as well.

The scenario will be the Eastern Front, August 1942 Spartakovka, North of Stalingrad. The depleted 16^th Panzer Division which is low on supply, attacks the fresh but inexperienced 124^th Rifle Brigade.

I hope to see you there!

Troy 

Recommended Colors

Recommended Colors

RECOMMENDED COLORS

MC: Vallejo Model Color

MA: Vallejo Model Air

PA: Vallejo Panzer Aces

GC: Vallejo Game Color

TA: Tamiya Acrylic

Ratio is expressed as 1/1 or 2/1 (etc) which is 1 or 2 drop(s) of paint.

For brushwork and ease of storage, you cannot beat Vallejo. They cover well and are fairly durable when cured. Their color range is extensive. They have Model Color, Game Color, Panzer Aces and an Model Air line. Thin with water, extend with their own retarder or Windsors & Newton Blending medium.

If Vallejo is the King of brush paints, then Tamiya must be the Queen of Airbrush. In my 30 years of painting, I have never been able to have consistent stellar results with any other product line except Tamiya. I thin 5 to 1 with Isopropyl alcohol for airbrush. I don't use Tamiya for brushwork.

I have found that mixing of colors between Vallejo and Tamiya can be hit or miss. Some Vallejo Game Colors will even clump up when mixed with Vallejo Model colors.

SOVIET INFANTRY

Gymnastierka/Breeches: Basically versions of the color Khaki. So many variations, from dark brown to dark green and everything in between. Also compounding the problem finding the 'right' color, some material and uniforms were imported through lend-lease that were more to Allied manufacturing colors/techniques. Early war tended to be a more brown-khaki, late war, a green-khaki. Below are my four main color choices.

Note: Mix each shadow color with some base color to get a nice even tone and transition.

'Brown' Khaki':

Base: 1/1 Khaki Grey 880 + German Cam. Orange Ochre.

Shadow: Khaki Grey 880.

Highlight: 2/1/1 German Cam. Orange Ochre.+ Desert Yellow 977 + Khaki Grey 880

'Green-Brown' Khaki':

Base: Middlestone 882

Shadow: Yellow Green 881. Deep shadow, Brown Violet 887.

Highlight: 1/1 Middlestone 882 + Sand Yellow 916.

'Green' Khaki':

Base: Dark Yellow 978.

Shadow: Yellow Green 881. Deep, Russian Inf. WWII 924.

Highlight: 1/1 Dark Yellow 978 + Sand Yellow 916.

'Tan' Khaki':

Base: Buff 976.

Shadow: Khaki 988. Deep, add add touch of Brown Violet 887.

Highlight: 2/1/1 Buff 976 + Khaki 988 + Pale Sand 837.

Shinel Greatcoat: Heavy woollen coat. Again various colors. From brown to grey green. There were also coats of rich golden brown (Lend-lease). Officers coats tended to be darker than enlisted men's. Early Soviet soldiers would have the Shinel tied across the chest or around the pack. Late-war Soviets would have the Raincoat/Groundsheet (or Plash Palatka) in its place.

1935-42 M35 'Brown'

Base: MC US Field Drab 873

Shadow: MC Leather Brown 871 or Burnt Umber 941.

Highlight: PA Highl. Ger. T. Crew II 339.

1935-42 M35 'Brown variation'

Base: 1/1 Burnt Umber 941 + USA Tan Earth 874.

Shadow: Burnt Umber 941.

Highlight: USA Tan Earth 874.

1935-42 M35 'Light Grey/Beige'

Base: 1/1 Khaki 988 + Deck Tan 986.

Shadow: 3/1 Khaki 988 + Deck Tan 986.

Highlight: 2/1 Deck Tan 986 + Khaki 988.

1941-45 M40 'Allied Import.

Base: English Uniform 921

Shadow: Leather Brown 871.

Highlight: 1/1 English Uniform 921 + German Cam. Orange Ochre 824

FIELD EQUIPMENT

Helmet and Mess Kit: 1/1 Reflective Green 890 + Yellow Green 881.

Knapsack: Dark Sand 847. Shade with Khaki Grey 880.

Raincoat/Groundsheet: Khaki 988 or Khaki Grey 880

Gasmask Bag: German Cam. Orange Ochre 824 highlighted with Sand Yellow 916

Rifle Strap: Japan Uniform WWII 923.

Enlisted man belt/ammo pouches: PA Light Rust 301

High Boots: Black 950.

Water Bottle: Stone Grey 884. or PA French Tank Crew 320.

Weapon Wood: Game Color Parisite Brown 042 with Liquid Acrylic Mahogany 820 for shadows and Deep Yellow 915 added in for highlights

Weapon Metal: Dark Seagreen 868 with Black shadows and Gunmetal Grey highlights

Entrenching Tool: Cover; Buff 976. Handle; Tan Yellow 912. Metal; Dark Seagreen 868.

GERMAN INFANTRY

Tunic/Breeches: Color varied as the war years and materials changed. What started as a quality uniform ended the war a shadow of its former self. The original 1939 war uniform was a greenish/blue version of fieldgrey but changed to a more Green/grey in 1941.

1939-40 M36 Feldbluse (or later years Officers tunics): Greenish-blue Feldgrau:

MC 920 German Uniform darkens substantially as it drys so don't use as is.

Base: 1/1 German Uniform 920 + White

Shadow: German Uniform 920

Highlight: 1/2 German Uniform 920 + White

Breeches:

Base: 3/1 Neutral Grey 992 + White

Shadow: Neutral Grey 992

Highlight: 1/3 Neutral Grey 992 + White

1941-45 Uniform: 'Classic' Grey-Green Feldgrau:

MC German Fieldgrey 830 is too dark for 15mm. It needs to be lightened substantially. Adding white only will result in washed out boring looking fieldgrey.

Base: 2/1/1 German Fieldgrey 830 + White + Sand Yellow 916

Shadow: German Fieldgrey 830.

Highlight: 1/1/2 German Fieldgrey 830 + White + Sand Yellow 916.

Other colors that work well:

Green Grey 886 (less green overall) with Fieldgrey 830 shadow.

Vallejo Game Color Heavy Grey 72145 (more green overall) with Fieldgrey 830 shadow.

Brown Violet 887 (very late-war) with US Olive Drab 889 Shadow.

PA US Army Tank Crew 318 - Great for Greatcoat.

FIELD EQUIPMENT

Helmet: MC 70.888 Olive Grey

Gasmask Can/Mess Kit: Olive Grey 888 or Reflective Green 890

highlight edge with aluminum (white/silver)

Gasmask Can Strap: Middlestone 882

Gas Cape: Pastel Green 885

Bread-bag: Dark Yellow 978. Add white to highlight.

Rifle Strap: Orange Brown 981

Shovel / Stick Grenade Handle: Sunny Skintone 845

High Boots and Y-Straps: Black 950

Water Bottle: Beige Brown 875 highlighted with Vallejo Panzer Aces Yellowish Rust 303, black or Khaki strap, field grey or black cap.

MP-40 Ammo Pouches: Yellow Green 881.

Lafette sMG Mount: Early war mount was painted Dunkelgrau (grey), Later Feldgrau (dark grey-green) and finally Dunkelgleb (dark tan-yellow). Disregard the apple-green post-war versions you may have seen. A little artistic license is needed here to add contrast and show detail.

Dunkelgrau: Base: London Grey 836. Highlight: Pale bluegrey 907. Shadow: German Grey 995.

Feldgrau: Base: German Camo Dark Green 979 OR Olive Grey 888

Highlight: Add Dark Yellow 978

Shadow: Add Black

Dunkelgleb: MC 70.978 Dark Yellow

7.92mm Ammo Can: German Camo Dark Green 979 OR Olive Grey 888

Weapon Wood: Game Color Parisite Brown 042 with Liquid Acrylic Mahogany 820 for shadows and Deep Yellow 915 added in for highlights

Weapon Metal: Dark Seagreen 868 with Black shadows and Gunmetal Grey highlights

Wehrmacht Zeltbahn Camo:

Base: My VPA Splinter base is VERY grey - yours may be more beige. May be a miss-tint? I prefer:
Tan base: VMC #103 Germ.C.Beige 70.821
Grey Base: VMC #111 Medium Grey 70.987

Brown Splinters: VMC #145 German Cam. Medium Brown 70.826

Green Splinters: VPA #348 Splinter Strips

Streaks:

CANADIAN INFANTRY

1939 Battledress (1939-1945):
Canadian BD was more green and of better quality than UK issue. Variations existed and some UK kit would invariably end up on Canadian soldiers. Canadian Airborne used British BD. You may go a little crazy trying to get the perfect shade! Wartime color photos seem to show a redish-tinged green-brown but this is most likely a development issue

I have now simplified my color choice to Vallejo 'Old' Yellow Green 112. It dries a bit more green. Vallejo has remade their color 112 to a much more green.

Base: 'Old' Yellow Green 112 with a touch of Black.

Shadow: Add more Black.

Highlight: 'Old' Yellow Green 112

This matches perfectly a WWII Canadian Wedge I have.

Alternative:

Base: 1 to 1 'New' Yellow Green + Green Brown 114 with a touch of black.

Shadow: Add more Black.

Highlight: 1 to 1 'New' Yellow Green + Green Brown 114.

Mk.III 'Turtle' Helmet (without netting): 50% Olive drab 889 + 50% Russian Uniform 924

The Mk. IV (low rivets on outside) is a post war helmet so don't use as a reference. Variations from dark green to dark brown, I have in my collection, a restored Mk.III (high rivets). Before restoring, I ground up an original paint chip and the color was US Field drab 873 with a touch of black! I assume oxidation has lightened the color somewhat in almost 70 years so this may be too light. Original was probably closer to Olive drab 889.

Webbing: My research has 1944-45 Canada using either raw canvas or KG3 blancoed webbing.

Raw without Blanco: Green Ochre 914.

KG3 Khaki Green: Base: Russian Unif. WWII 94

Helmet Netting: Middlestone 882 or VGC Camo Green 031

Rifle Strap: Green Ochre 914

Boots: Black 950

Gas Mask Pouch: VPA French Tank Crew 320

Water Bottle Cover: 113 Khaki Grey or 114 Green Brown.

Weapon Wood:

Weapon Metal: Dark Seagreen 868 with Black shadows and Gunmetal Grey highlights.

VEHICLES

Procedure:

1. Base Coat.

2. Darkened basecoat wash.

3. Airbrush highlight coat to top/sunbleached areas.

4. Shadow deep shadows. (pinwash)

5. Selective washes (rust, dust, oil).

6. Rain streaking with base color and black extremely thin wash.

7. Spray on dust to lower half of vehicle.

8. Extreme highlights.

9. Chipping.

Metal Tracks: Base: Dark Rust 302

Wood Tool Handles: New, Flat Flesh 955. Weathered, Iraqi Sand 819

Metal Tool Parts: Base, Dark Sea Green 868. Highlight, Oily Steel 865 or Gunmetal Grey 863

Rubber Tires: Base German Grey 995. Black is too dark.

SOVIETS VEHICLES:

FS34259 4BO Protective Green: Many variations of tank green, too many to list.

MC 70.894 Russian Green is much too dark for 15mm scale. I use the following for base colors:

3/1 PA 320 French Tank Crew + MC 70.857 Golden Olive Bright green.

2/1 MC 70.881 Yellow Green* + MC 70.894 Russian Green. Bright Green.

*MC 70.881 Yellow Green - Vallejo has recently (2017) changed this color to a much more green shade.

MA 71.010 Interior Green.

Medium Green/Brown

SOVIET AIRCRAFT:

1/1 MC70.881 Yellow Green + MC70.890 Reflective Green. Dark Green.

IL2 Sturmovik 3-Color Camo:

1. AMT 1 Dark Earth:3/2 MC 70.877 Desert Yellow (#125) + MC 70.880 Khaki Grey(#113)

2. AMT 4 Green:

3. AMT 12 Dark Grey:

GERMAN:

German Dunkelgrau RAL 7021:

MC 70.869 Basalt Grey. This is less blue than MC 70.836 London Grey and is a good scaled Panzer Grey starting point.

German Dunkelgelb RAL 7028:

4/1 MC 70.978 Dark Yellow + white.

German Camo Green:

RAL 6003 Olivgrün: MC 70.894 Russian Green

RAL 6006 Feldgrau: MC 70.888 Olive Grey

RAL 6007 Grün: MC70.823 Luftwaffe Cam. Green

4/1 TA Olive Green XF-58 + Dark Yellow XF-60

German Camo Brown:

RAL 8012 Rot: MC 70.846 Mahogany Brown

RAL 8013 Rotbraun: MC 70.985 Hull Red

RAL 8017 Kaffeebraun: MC 70.871 Leather Brown

1/1 MA 034 Sand Brown + VMA 035 Camo Pale Brown

4/1 TA Red Brown XF-64 + Dark Yellow XF-60

More Soviets...

Hey All!

Finishing up a few more Soviets Platoon HQs, squads and mortar teams.

I changed up my colors for uniforms for some of the figures. Color on the right figure is Vallejo 882 Middlestone with 887 Brown Violet for shadows and 916 Sand Yellow mixed in for highlights for a more brown overall tone as opposed to the left figure which is my standard 881 Yellow Green base, 924 Russian Unif. WWII Shadows, 847 Dark Sand Highlights which gives a more green look.

Other colors are pretty much standard but I did try out a few changes for face shadows.
I added a new arm holding a mortar round to the 4th figure to create a different loader. I also am putting together a few Finns with head transplants and equipment changes (put them up later) to add variety to the squads.

 The mortar on the right is scratchbuilt to represent the earlier PM-37 model.

Mixing in a few of the Battlefront LW Battlefront minis (figures 1, 2, and 4) with shoulder boards removed. These are much more realistic in stature than the MW early sculpts (figure 3) but are harder to paint. They have much finer detail (you really have to have magnification to see some of it!) and tend to be skinnier (some Ethiopean) so may not mix well with the earlier minis. The weapon on the LW figures look more realistic but tend to be more fragile. 2nd figure is an SVT-40 semi-automatic and definitly looks the part. As well, the Mosin Nagant rifles have more details than the earlier sculpts which required some painting in or sculpting of the details to look good

 Not quite finished these figures, still have some face detail to do.

For a more detailed view, right click on the pictures and choose 'Open in a link in new window' to get pictures in their original  size.

Cheers!

Troy

70th Anniversary of 13th Guards Counterattack!

Hey All!

 

I have not forgot about completing the faces tutorial but I have been working on a few related projects - namely increasing the forces I have available to game Stalingrad-era battles with. The battle of Stalingrad has always been a fovorite subject of mine since I learned about it as a boy. I first read about it on the back of an Airfix or some such playset I received after hours of begging my parents!

I remember too the first scenario in Avalon Hills Squad Leader 'The Guards Counterattack'. I played the hell out of the first 3 scenarios and I think I have been trying to capture the same gaming excitement ever since!

I have begun a 4-vehicle Panzer IIIJ platoon of the 24th Panzer Div. I started by cleaning up the Battlefront casts  - big job -  and planning the customizations. The worst was the cupolas. Lots of filing and sanding!  I also removed the extra resin under the chassis with a belt sander. I then used JB Weld (KWIK) to attach the tracks to the hull. This incredibly strong epoxy product sets up in 15 or less minutes and is highly recommended. Just make sure to get Kwik or it takes overnight to setup!

The BF Panzer III is a pretty poor cast but it is savable. Another problem I have with it is the 7-hole incorrect wheels. I know, I know, I'm a bolt counter but come on, there should be 6 holes evenly spaced and another 6 small holes inter spaced. I could live without the small holes but the big ones, really?!

I added a new gunbarrel, (corrected the BF overly tapered one) tools, hooks, wire cutter handles (the molded ones were missing on all casts?) fender storage boxes, hull MG, Notec and regular headlights (none cast), and screened air intakes. I also detailed the turret stowage box with clamps and etched-in detail. If you are careful, you can scribe the resin and pewter with various details to increase the realism of your minis. 

 

The stowage rack on the real deck was made from thin brass sheet and filled with various 15mm gizmo's. I added a extra roadwheel to the fender but had to rework it as it was too wide and too tall to allow the turret to turn. It should really trade places with the jacking block...I primed with flat white and cleaned up any surface bubbles and bumps that didn't show up without the prime.  I will post pics of the other three as I complete the work.

 

I also based up an Assault squad of 13th Guards and detailed up the Molotov with a painted sponge flame. These are really great sculpts! Easy to paint, good face detail and clean lines.

 They have oversized hands and faces (easier to paint) no necks as well as stunted bodies but are very robust and will stand up well to gaming. While not perfect, I prefer these to Forged in Battle or anyone elses currently out there.

 I am planning to paint up another eight teams so have a fair bit of painting ahead! Base style will be similar to the earlier teams I have painted but with a more 'Industrial' edge to them (think factory rubble).

 I went a little blue -er (dark sea blue 898 instead of dark sea green 868) on the PPSH's and like the result but I may mix the two in future.

 

 I also did up a test stand of Sturmpionere's. While there is a blister of mid-war Pioneres available (GE726 Pioneer Platoon) and there are a few good figures in it, they are an ad hoc assortment with only about half of them usable. I sifted through all of my other Germans and came up with twenty good minis to represent platoon.

I changed out the head of the left chap and added a cloth helmet cover to him and his mate. I removed the pole charge and subbed in a MG34 to the middle figure as he is a good cast but looks out of place with the charge.

 Another good source of Pioneres is the GE884 Oberfeldwebel Schmidt & Assault Troop. They are a good group of action poses armed with PPSH's and lots of grenades. I plan on using a fair bit of the figures sprinkled in the teams.

 Basing will be similar to the Grenadiers I have done except, as in the Russian Guards, there will be some factory junk strewn about.

Cheers!

Troy

Faces!

Hey All!

I have been a bit busy as of late - Summer and knee surgery! Can't do too much but I'm well enough to get back to painting!

Pictured above are some Soviet Platoon HQ Stalingrad-era fellows and my wet palette made with a Folgers Coffee can lid, Parchment paper and ass-wipe (I now use a sponge). Add water and your paints stay wet for days... Too bad it doesn't work on the wife...

To paint faces, I use Vallejo colors from top right to left:

817 Scarlet
876 Brown Sand
803 Brown Rose
342 Highlights Flesh (white and flat flesh same-same, I'm just lazy)
845 Sunny Skin Tone
955 Flat Flesh
822 German Camo Black Brown
872 Chocolate Brown

I also use 815 Basic Skin Tone as the basecoat. Lets see, that's 9 plus white and black. Holy crap! No wonder its taking me so long to finish anything! I begin by taking a white-primed figure and painting an undercoat of 815 on all the face and hands. Try to keep the paint thin. I add about 1/2 drop of water to a full drop of well-shaken paint. I let this dry usually overnight but if you are in a hurry, into the oven for about 15 minutes at 150-170 degrees Fahrenheit.

These figures are part of a platoon of Assault squads that I am putting together. I plan on having four squads when complete. I will probably add a flame from the Molotov later. I am continuing to attempt to lighten the highlights to get more contrast.

 The figures on the left will become -1 Platoon HQs. I painted them straight out of 'The Soviet Soldier' by Histoire&Collections book.

Stay Tuned!

Troy